shea butter as facial moisturizer?

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Corinne
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Unrefined Sheabutter good/bad?

Post by Corinne »

Hi all,
I was wondering about natural, unrefined sheabutter...

"Shea butter is extracted from shea nuts. Shea nuts are primarily grown in West and Central Africa in the semi-arid Sahel, referred to by traders as the "Shea Belt". Vitellaria paradoxa and Vitellaria nilotica are the main varieties. Vitellaria paradoxa is exported in the largest volume and grows throughout the West African region. Vitellaria nilotica is produced primarily in northern Uganda and southern Sudan."
This is a quote from this site: http://www.unrefinedsheabutter.com/cfwe ... page_id=18

I also gathered some technical info about the composition of sheabutter here:
http://www.asnapp.org/PDF/crop%20profil ... butter.pdf

from what I know it might contain too much vitamin E to be good for us (too much antioxidents), but I was woundering RRM about the other ingredients: what are Stearic and oleic acids? What does unsaponified mean? and whether or not it is just as good as unrefined coco oil for hair and skin...

Cheers
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RRM
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Post by RRM »

I cant help thinking about peanutbutter when I read your post.
did you mean for eating, or just for skincare purposes (I guess the latter, since yuu posted in the skincare forum...)
How is it different?
How is it extracted?
I guess there is no 'extra virgin' sheabutter?
what are Stearic and oleic acids?
Normal fatty acids, present in oil and fruits as well.
What does unsaponified mean?
The saponifiable fraction usually means the part with most of the moisturizing properties.
The nonsaponifiable fraction contains nutrients and phytochemicals.
I guess unsaponified means "no moisturizing agents added".
and whether or not it is just as good as unrefined coco oil for hair and skin...
Unrefined doesnt mean that much to me. How about cold-pressed / extra virgin?
damian
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shea butter as facial moisturizer?

Post by damian »

Is unrefined shea butter good to use as a facial moisturizer?

On the one hand, it lasts longer and moisturizes more deeply than any other one-ingredient natural product I've used (e.g., olive oil [which I now know not to use due to its high vitamin E content], coconut oil [the smell of which I dislike], and cocoa butter [the smell of which I detest, and which I now know not to use because Wai says it can clog pores]).

On the other hand, I find that my skin is quite dry when I get out of the shower and wonder whether the shea butter mimics sebum so well that it actually decreases sebum production, thereby making the skin dryer when the shea butter isn't on it (that's precisely what happened when I was using jojoba oil a long time ago, according to my experience and others' accounts). However, when I stopped using shea butter for a few days, I found that my skin was still dry, so maybe the shea butter had nothing to do with the dryness. Does anyone know?

Also, the shea butter I have has no added vitamin E, but I don't know how much occurs in it naturally (I can't find this information anywhere on the web). Perhaps this could cause dryness? Does anyone know how much vitamin E is in shea butter?

In addition, I'm concerned about shea butter's superficial similarity to cocoa butter. They're both completely solid at room temperature. At http://www.freeacnebook.com/cause.htm, Wai writes, "Cocoa butter contains even less vitamin E (1 mg.) but that can clog your pores." How can cocoa butter clog your pores? Can shea butter do the same?

Finally, I am tempted to try walnut oil or sesame oil, as suggested on this site. However, there are three reasons why I haven't yet done so:

1. I haven't yet been able to find unrefined, unroasted walnut oil or sesame oil. Am I correct in assuming that I shouldn't use refined oils on the skin, or is there nothing wrong with refined oils?

2. Given how much better shea butter works than everything else I've tried, I have a hard time imagining walnut oil or sesame oil working better.

3. Since shea butter is solid at room temperature and walnut and sesame oils aren't, I assume that the former is higher in saturated fat than the latter two. And I can see on the labels of the latter two that they have a significant amount of polyunsaturated fat. Since I spend a considerable amount of time outside in the sun, I am concerned that using these sorts of oils would cause oxidative damage to the skin, due to the fragility of the polyunsaturated fats. Is this a reasonable concern?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
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RRM
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Re: shea butter as facial moisturizer?

Post by RRM »

damian wrote:wonder whether the shea butter mimics sebum so well that it actually decreases sebum production
Yes, thats possible.
However, when I stopped using shea butter for a few days, I found that my skin was still dry, so maybe the shea butter had nothing to do with the dryness. Does anyone know?
Shea butter seems to contain a lot of vitamin A,
which accelerates shedding of the skin.
Does anyone know how much vitamin E is in shea butter?
No, but it seems to contain more vitamin E than cocao butter.
is there nothing wrong with refined oils?
I think its ok to use for skin protection.
I am concerned that using these sorts of oils would cause oxidative damage to the skin, due to the fragility of the polyunsaturated fats. Is this a reasonable concern?
Yes, these fats get damaged, but due to the solidity of the butter, its not a problem (it doesnt get in your skin)
damian
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Post by damian »

thanks, rrm, for your comprehensive reply. there's one thing, though, that perhaps i didn't communicate clearly: i am concerned about the polyunsaturated fats in sesame oil and walnut oil (not in shea butter, which is low in polyunsaturated fats) becoming oxidized in the sun. i should add that i just started using sesame oil and find that it works at least as well as the shea butter, if not better. so i'm wondering, should i not be using sesame oil (or another oil high in polyunsaturated fats) if i'm going to be spending time in the sun (maybe 15 minutes a day of direct sunlight on average, sometimes more)? (the bottle of sesame oil i have says it can be cooked at up to 350 degrees fahrenheit, which is probably much hotter than my skin gets in the sun, so perhaps it's okay.)
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Post by RRM »

Yes, when you spend time in the sun, its better if the oil has few polyunsaturated fats. Not just because of the heat, but also because of oxidation in the absence of heat.
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Mr. PC
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Re: shea butter as facial moisturizer?

Post by Mr. PC »

Not sure whether to start a thread or post here, but I was wondering about making a body-butter/cream, for myself and as a Christmas girft to all the females I know.

Shae Butter is too high in Vitamin A, and therefor sheds skin
Cocoa Butter clogs pours

But what if I made a cream by melting the two (as little heat as possible), mix in coconut oil, and whip until it turns to a cream. I want to package it as gifts (just bought a huge tub of coco and Shae butters, unrefined).

Would it now have a consistency less likely to block your pours, and less vitamin A content, and therefor make a good facial protection/sunscreen/body butter etc?

I also don't want it to be oily, because I'm mainly thinking about this for my mom, who has terribly dry skin, and her hands get really dry to the point of bleeding, but when I tell her to use coconut oil, she says it's too oily. I'd like to give her something she likes, but also that helps her skin in the long term.

Thanks
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Re: shea butter as facial moisturizer?

Post by RRM »

Mr. PC wrote:...I want to package it as gifts
first try it yourself, before you give it to somebody else.
I'm mainly thinking about this for my mom, who has terribly dry skin, and her hands get really dry to the point of bleeding
Does she use plastic gloves when she does the dishes or any other stuff that involves getting her hands wet and in contact with any kind of soap / cleansing agent?
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Mr. PC
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Re: shea butter as facial moisturizer?

Post by Mr. PC »

So I've made it, and my mom and sister love it. The consistency is perfect, and they say it feels great. I kept some for myself and have lots to give as presents for other friends.

I used
1cup coconut butter
1cup Shea butter
1/2 cup coconut oil
1/2 cup olive oil

My concerns are just that it might contain -too much vitamin A, too much vitamin E. I guess I can't know if it clogs pores without trying it myself. The vitamins aren't too much of a concern for the gifts, because everyone I'm giving it to would be using chemicals if they didn't have this, which likely have more agents speeding up skin growth than this butter does. But I would like to know for the next batch I make, which will be mostly for my mom, sister, and myself.

My mom used to wash dishes with gloves, but not anymore. I should suggest it again. I also think if she puts the butter on before washing dishes it would help. At work there's little she can do though.
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